Free Pattern, How To Make A Fringed Crochet Choker Necklace

Crochet Necklace With Wood Beads In Turquoise, Blue and Olive Green

Crochet Necklace With Wood Beads In Turquoise, Blue and Olive Green

I’ve made a rule, that before I’m allowed to buy any more yarn, I have to use all that I have, which is quite a lot.  I bought this yarn quite a while ago just because I liked it.  I had no real plan for what I’d do with it since it’s too thick to use for my  headbands.  For my headband pattern, I usually use sock yarn or something equally fine.  This is a flat ribbon yarn made with a polyester, acrylic blend.  I kept thinking what nice fringe it would make.  I designed these necklaces especially with this yarn in mind.This particular yarn is 1/8 inch or 3 mm wide and flat.  You may need to adjust the pattern if a different sized yarn is used.   I chose to use a traditional clasp but a crochet button and loop would probably work well too.

This pattern assumes a basic knowledge of crochet stitches and abbreviations.  My method of crochet is a bit unorthodox due to a problem I had with my left hand when I first learned, so I’m not the right person to give advice to beginners on how to hold the needle and form the stitches.  My post DIY – How to Make A Crochet Headband has a list of stitch abbreviations before the pattern.

If you’re not into DIY projects, or you just don’t have time, you can find these necklaces in my shop Catalina Inspired, in the section Crochet Jewelry.

For this yarn I used a F/5-3.75mm hook.  First, chain 75.  If you’re using ribbon yarn, be sure to keep it flat as you wrap it around the hook.  If it twists, it can look sloppy.

Crochet Choker Step 2 - Add Clasp To End of Chain 75

Crochet Choker Step 2 – Add Clasp To End of Chain 75

If you’re using a traditional metal clasp, at the end of the chain, slide the remaining loop through one half of the clasp as pictured.

Next, chain 1 then sc in each chain stitch making sure the yarn stays flat.  The yarn can get quite twisted so sometimes I cut it making sure I’ve left enough to finish the row.  When you reach the end of the row, slip stitch in the 1st chain stitch, then slip the second half of the clasp over the last loop.   Chain 1.  It should look like this:

Crochet Choker Step 3 - Second Half Of Clasp

Crochet Choker Step 3 – Second Half Of Clasp

Now tie off the last stitch and weave the ends in.

Now cut four 8 1/2 inch lengths of yarn.  Carefully line them up so they are flat and lined up side by side then tie them in an overhand knot around the center of the necklace being very careful to keep the yarn flat and neat.  Carefully tighten the knot until it looks something like this:

Crochet Choker Step 4 - Knot Fringe Around Choker

Crochet Choker Step 4 – Knot Fringe Around Choker

When the knot is tied, lay the eight fringes out flat.  String some wood or glass beads on each length of fringe so they hang down straight and don’t tangle as easily.  I chose to knot the fringes at four different lengths like so:

Crochet Choker Step 5 - Tie Wood (or Glass) Beads To Each Fringe

Crochet Choker Step 5 – Tie Wood (or Glass) Beads To Each Fringe

The finished product should look something like this:Finished!  Crochet Choker Necklace With Wood Beads

Crochet Headband Pattern – Part Two

Crochet Headband in Salmon Pink (click on the picture to see this item in my Etsy Shop)

Crochet Headband in Salmon Pink (click on the picture to see this item in my Etsy Shop)

While reading over my last post (DIY – How to Make a Crochet Headband – Part One) I realized I’d forgotten a couple of important points.

(before I begin, I’ll just mention again, that if you don’t have the time or desire to make this headband yourself, I have many different styles available in my Etsy Shop – Catalina Inspired if you want to check them out.)

First, when you complete each square and tie it off, you should leave a 7″ – 8″ tail of yarn remaining before you cut.  This reduces the number of  ends you have to weave in.  If you’ve already woven the ends in, however, all is not lost.  I’ll explain more on that when I get back to the pattern.

The second point I forgot to mention concerns everyone’s personal style of crochet and resulting gauge.  The gauge (stitches per inch) can be pretty flexible in this pattern since the headband doesn’t need to be a specific width.  For reference purposes, my squares, using the bamboo blend yarn, end up being just a little more than 2″ square.  However, some people crochet tighter or looser stitches.  The squares are often a little tight around the edges (represented by a slight curl or pucker) but this is ok since we will be stitching around the outside of the squares which will stretch them a bit.  If you think your squares are really misshapen though, you can alter the pattern slightly to accommodate your own style.

For example, in round 3 of the motif, you can try doing 4 single crochets in each ch3 space instead of 5.  Of course, you will then need to subtract these stitches from the 4th round.

If any of this is confusing,  you’re having trouble with the pattern or something doesn’t make sense (an error on my part), please feel free to leave a comment with the details of your issue and I’ll be happy to help.

Ok, to pick up from where we left off in the last post…

You should now have 5 squares completed.  If you did leave a 7″ – 8″ tail of yarn off each square, here’s how to proceed.  You’ll need a large, plastic, blunt ended needle.  Line up 2 of the squares so that both tails are facing down off the bottom of each square and thread the needle like this (make sure the correct side of the square is facing up)…

Crochet Headband - Joining Two Squares - Step One

Crochet Headband – Joining Two Squares – Step One

Next, pass the needle through the center ch of the top, right ch3 space on the bottom square, like this:

Crochet Headband - Joining Two Squares - Step Two

Crochet Headband – Joining Two Squares – Step Two

Pull the thread through but leave enough slack so that the squares are still lined up.  Then pass the needle over and through the center ch on the bottom, right, ch3 space on the top square like this…

Crochet Headband - Joining Two Squares - Step Three

Crochet Headband – Joining Two Squares – Step Three

Now pass the needle under and back through the same center ch of the top right ch3 space on the bottom square.  Adjust the yarn at this point so that it’s not too tight or too loose going from the tie-off point to where it enters the first stitch.  As you sew the two squares together, make sure you catch the slack part of the yarn (from the beginning) in each stitch so that it cannot be seen.  Also, when sewing the two squares together, pass the needle only through the back loop (the two loops closest to each other) of the sc like this…

Crochet Headband - Joining Two Squares - Step Four

Crochet Headband – Joining Two Squares – Step Four

Continue joining the squares by sewing through the back loop all the way to the center ch of the ch 3 spaces on the left.  Weave the end back through and cut.  It should look something like this…

Crochet Headband - Joining Two Squares - Step Five

Crochet Headband – Joining Two Squares – Step Five

Continue joining the other three squares in the same manner.  If you didn’t leave a 7″ – 8″ tail of yarn on each square, all you have to do is cut a piece of yarn about 9″ long and sew the squares together in the same manner, only leaving about 2″ before the first stitch.   Sew over it as you go across the edges of the square. Here’s what the 5 squares should look like when they’re joined together…

Crochet Headband - All Five Squares Joined Together

Crochet Headband – All Five Squares Joined Together

Again, please feel free to comment with any issues or clarification of my instructions.  I realize I’ve been leaning heavily on pictures here, but I’ve never actually written one of my patterns down and I’m a visual person, so I think it comes across more clearly this way.  If not – let me know! Click here for part three of the crochet headband pattern

Happy hooking!!